John Galliano Spring Summer 2009 Women's Collection

James Gillray and the Queen Mum. You had to be a bit of a British art-history nerd to get the references John Galliano was dispensing backstage to mostly blank looks from fashion correspondents. But thank goodness for Stephen Jones' erudition on historical headgear—and Google backup—because here we are at the source: outrageous Regency cartoons of silly fashions from the Napoleonic war era, giant plumed military helmets, overblown mob-caps, and indecently transparent dresses. Sorted. (Oh, apart from the Queen Mummery, which equals the sweet pea florals, of course.)

But did one actually need to know this to understand the collection? Hardly, because as accomplished as the backstage history boys may be, this was a show of tried-and-trusted Galliano classics put out at a moment when he's essentially brought his runway antics to a stop. What's walking out now are simplified, understandable pieces: parka-derived daywear with vestiges of military frogging in tape; little drapey jersey dresses; fragile rosette-sleeved cardigans; tiny, flippy ruffled floral skirts.

In one way, that challenges the idea that a fashion show has to be newsy to be worthwhile—though it's a harder case to make when a resentful, exhausted audience is expected to travel an hour on a cold Saturday night to an insalubrious quarter of Paris to view it. To justify this, Galliano needed to pull something special out of his hat. He did, eventually, in an evening section in which his fragile, sheer, spangled, romantically tinted and flower-printed dresses briefly settled onlookers into a serene state of appreciation. If there are parties to go to next season, these are the kinds of dresses many girls might dream of wearing to them. With an underslip, of course.

PARIS, October 4, 2008
By Sarah Mower（style.com)

Source: John Galliano

Roberto Cavalli Spring Summer 2009 Runwayshow

Roberto Cavalli wasn't completely back in glamazon mode today, but neither was this the dreamy, almost decorous collection of last Spring. In fact, it was a bit all over the place. Out first were three-piece suits—that'd be jacket, short shorts or mini, and exposed bra (now a bona fide Milan trend)—rendered in bandanna prints. Equally abbreviated bustier dresses came with faience prints in the front and "faux cul" bustles in the back. There were even some Tom Ford-era Gucci clingy jersey numbers with cutout hips in the mix. On the sweeter side, printed chiffon parachute dresses and strapless debutante gowns floated out with a few off-the-waist dresses. It was the latter that got the fashion pack so excited last September; this time they were sheer.

The only things missing were Cavalli's signature animal prints, slightly ironic given their omnipresence elsewhere in Milan. So, how to make sense of it all? You could call it a best-of collection, but that would be being generous. In the end, it looked like there were too many cooks in the kitchen.

MILAN, September 24, 2008
By Nicole Phelps(Style.com)

Source: Roberto Cavalli

ANNA SUI SPRING 2009 RUNWAYSHOW

s rents up and down Seventh Avenue become more expensive, clothing manufacturers are getting pushed out. If the "Save the Garment Center" T-shirt Anna Sui put in her goody bag—what, no free hairstyling products?—and wore to take her bow don't do much to stem the problem, her Spring collection, with all of its beading and appliqué work, might just keep a few factories in business. Sui took inspiration from the way that textile designer, shopkeeper, and New York Mexican restaurant pioneer Alexander Girard and his doll-maker friend Marilyn Neuhart made the folkloric modern. "Their work was very colorful, optimistic, and happy, which is what I'm pushing these days," Sui said.

The parade of shift dresses, rompers, and peasant tops worn with kicky skirts had a vaguely south-of-the-border feel—think rosebud embroideries, rickrack borders, and fringe detailing. But as usual, there was plenty more in Sui's madcap mix to catch the eye, including astrology prints, a detour into Spanish toreador mode, studded gladiator sandals, and some of the grooviest costume jewelry (made by Erickson Beamon) in a season of groovy costume jewelry. If it didn't put a smile on your face, you weren't paying attention.

NEW YORK, September 10, 2008
By Nicole Phelps(style.com)

Source: ANNA SUI